We’ve been 3 weeks on the road, making our way north from Vancouver. We’re now in Fairbanks Alaska. We’ve had some great mountain scenery, lakes and raging rivers. We paddled for a day on the Yukon River out of Whitehorse, just to pay homage to the second largest river in Canada. There’s certainly no such thing as a to and fro paddle on the rivers here- there is no way you can paddle against the current. So you need someone to collect you downstream! We saw lots of bald eagles that day, high over the cliffs, and being harassed by ravens.

And the wildlife…. one day we sighted 6 black bears, just along the side of the road. Apparently they like to eat the dandelions. It does, however, diminish one’s enthusiasm for walking too far into the woods! We had one day in British Columbia where we saw moose, caribou, 2 types of deer and big horn sheep all in about 50km.  We later added a porcupine and a lemming to the list. Since then, it’s been a bit quiet. so we’re hoping for more tomorrow when we go to Denali National Park.

We experienced life from the goldrush era in Dawson City. Perhaps the equivalent of Kalgoorlie, except the temperatures were at the opposite extreme! A lot of the town buildings have been restored and it really does look like a town from the wild west. We followed the gold theme into Alaska where we did some tourist gold panning- and I scooped about $36 worth!

Now, who voted for daylight saving? Well come and experience the ultimate- 24 hours of daylight! With all the daylight and no specific schedule to work, the day loses its boundaries. We find we’re not even thinking of bed by midnight. It plays havoc with your sleep. We decided that as we were this close to the Arctic Circle, we’d drive to it. However (and this may be hard to believe) I made  a  slight error- I thought it was only 200km, it turned out to be 300! A thunderstorm, a fuel crisis and 2 tyres later and we had been to the Arctic and back! A pretty rough road for a  30 yr old RV!

From Vancouver we made our way up to Prince George and then followed the Alaska Highway. Fort Nelson to Watson Lake was very spectacular, but along the way we decided to stop at Liard River Hot Springs (how could you not). We pulled in to the camping area and was told there was a bushfire up ahead- and the road would soon be closed, perhaps for up to a week! We could “make a run for it” if we wanted. We didn’t! Anyway we had a lovely soak in the hot springs and tried not to think about the ash falling on us. As it turned out the road was only closed for a few hours so we were able to continue the next day.

From Watson Lake we made our way to Whitehorse and from there, left the Alaska Highway and headed up to Dawson City. We went a little way north from there- into Tombstone Territorial Park and then made our way over “the Top Of the World” highway into Alaska. And now we’re about to explore Alaska….

Easter Moonlight Paddle: Good Friday 10 April 4pm-9pm

The last one of the season. Come and enjoy a paddle in Canadian canoes on the Swan at sunset.  Enjoy your dinner beside  the river and then return by the light of the silvery moon. Phone or email for details. Cost: $35pp.

Hot Cross Bun Kayak Paddle: Sunday 12 April 9am-1pm

Paddle by kayak along the Swan and enjoy a morning  tea of hot cross buns and easter eggs.  Phone or email for details. Cost: $40pp.

Ph Pam on 93782523 or email pam@inspirationoutdoors.com.au

Neal Bennet’s Cape to Cape Diary

Martin Curtis, Rick’s brother, organised this trip and as a converted Kiwi for 30 years he knew what he was doing. He took us to places only the Kiwis find, found us historic pubs to stay in and arranged for us to eat the most amazing meals night after night. We started in Mt Cook National Park where the weather was definitely against us.  Within 200metres we had our first swing bridge. Well how blase did we become about swing bridges by the end of the trip?  That night we feasted on the iconic Hermitage smorgasbord; I challenge anyone not to find something in it to suit their tastebuds. The next day the Tasman Glacier showed us icebergs even Martin had not seen.

Undaunted by not having seen Mt Cook due to the weather, we made our way to Lake Ohau and were rewarded with an outdoor hot tub at the lodge.  Our first full day walk was into the Temple Valley and here we were initiated into a very Kiwi practice-that of crossing rivers. We did these barefoot;  it was much later before we would walk without hesitation, boots and all , through  the raging creeks.

Dunedin saw us staying at the historic Leviathan Hotel and enjoying  the lovely Otago Peninsula with its Royal Albatross. Martin thought we would be missing sand walking, so he took us on  a walk to Sandfly beach- providing us  with a dune equivalent to about 7 Cape to Capes! Then it  was yellow eyed penguins, fur seals and sea lions as we made our way to Surat Bay. Great coastal walking and some wonderful forest walking with waterfalls.  A dinner at historic Trotter’s house was a highlight of the trip, where Bob cooked us up a 4 course meal in his lovely restored home.

Our walk up to Lake Alta and the Wye Saddle above Queenstown was another great day’s walking. Very challenging over lots of rocks and it was windy to boot. But fabulous views. Historic Arrowtown showed us the goldmining heritage of the area.

The Roaring Meg walk was a full day walk over the Pisa range. Good weather on this occasion meant some great views. And 2 falcons as well. More barefooot stream crossings and the end of the day saw us at the wonderful Cardrona pub.

And every evening Martin entertained us with his guitar and singing/poetry, stories of the birds and characters of New Zealand. It  was just a shame everyone was so tired from their daily exertions!

The tour climax was the wilderness trip for the last 3 days. We donned full packs and walked out into the Matukituki valley, in Mt Aspiring National Park. It took us several hours to walk out to a very special private hut, with  the most amazing view of Mt Aspiring. We had 2 nights there. Some people chose to spend the next day soaking up the atmosphere, while others indulged in the “flat walk up the valley”, climbing over tree roots, streams and swing bridges! The weather changed again on the last night, so the following day we walked out, through  streams of rain, mud and cow poo! We just walked on through the streams, boots and all. Some young climbers  following us were surprised at how long it took to catch us- “I hope I can do that when I’m your age” said one young man!

Phone 93782523 or email pam@inspirationoutdoors.com.au for more  information or to  book this trip.

Cost: $40pp

We ran similar tours in 2007 and 2008 and they were amazing. To check out the blogs and photos from these trips click on Ningaloo and Karijini 2008 and Karijini and More 2007.

This trip is being run by Coates Wildlife Tours. Transport is by 4WD coach and the tour is all camping, a combination of bush camps, National Park Campsites and private campsites. All enquiries and payments need to be directed to Coates.

Pricing: AUD$3175 per person

Coates Wildlife Tours: phone 93306066 www.coates.iinet.net.au

For more information, download the following documents:

Trip Dossier Western Explorer Tour

Richard was the pacesetter, well he was so far in front that noone even tried to keep pace with him! Mind you he did confess to me on the last day that he couldn’t  have managed  another day were there one! Wendy and Jill were recidivists who just wanted to enjoy it all again. Jill says she was pleased to confirm that dolphins really do surf and even more pleased to discover that the beach on the last day was not 50km long as she remembered it! Wendy is the most relaxed walker I have ever come across. Di transferred (luckily!) from another walk. Barbara found it  tough going but she never gave up. Aileen and Ross seemed to take it in their stride,relishing the break form their work lives.  Ken felt it was his duty to affirm the quality of Di’s cooking,  while Mary and Nancy had the tough jobs of keeping Ken and  Richard in line.

We had some great weather this week and the wildflowers were spectacular. Each time we do this walk (and Adrian had done it dozens of times), there are improvements to the track-new stairs, handrails, signage. However the killer dune of Day 2 remains and proved a challenge as always. The beaches were fairly kind, but certainly no shorter! The river crossings had subsided and no canoe was necessary, everyone just wading across the Margaret River.

Each evening the walkers enjoyed the ambiance of Sheoak Chalets, especially when they came home to the fires gently burning! After 7 days, I must say everyone looked pleased to reach the Leeuwin Lighthouse; there were hugs all round. The week of sore feet, sand dunes, wonderful vistas, great food and terrific company had ended: there was a sense of achievement, but also sadness that it was over.

Now here’s something for the Freophiles! It’s a course around Freo that is designed to test your thinking. You’ll be using the latest GPS technology to follow clues, get lost and have heaps of fun! Don’t worry- you’ll be in small groups ! Our favourite batman, and gadget freak, Joe Tonga has come up with this one. Join us for some hilarity!

This trip has been organised in conjunction with The Glyde-In Community Centre in Fremantle. To book phone 93393964.

So it was bound to be noisy nights and busy days. I’m afraid the weather gods were not on our side and the group had to contend with some pretty nasty weather- high winds, rain and dodgy weather forecasts!

They set off from Walpole with wet weather gear flapping, but this departure was more than matched by the day they walked into Lights Beach- it looked like Scott from the Antarctic! Nevertheless it wasn’t as bad as it seemed and the views and flowers more than compensated. The Queensland girls took it upon themselves to document every wildflower while meanwhile the frontrunners were setting new records. Des took time for photos too, and each evening we could relive the walk via  the laptop.  At the end of the trip he presented everyone with a CD of his wonderful photos.

Of course each evening everyone was revived with Di’ cooking- it seemed as if each night exceeded the previous one. All thoughts of weight loss dissipated.

The attendance at dancing on Friday night was a bit poor, with cries of “why didn’t you tell us to bring our dancing shoes?”.Then again, then maybe the locals thought it was quite enough! I have to say I enjoy my annual tripping  the light fantastic  at the Denmark Town Hall.

Sandra organised a Melbourne Cup sweep; we had suggested the canoe crossing could have been the aquatic version.

On the last day Di’s scones were a great hit, reviving the walkers who conquered Mt Halliwell in less than ideal conditions. We were very pleased to see them arrive safely at The Cove, serenaded in by Steve on his accordion. They felt their safe passage down the slippery granite was in part due to the caution engendered by Sandra’s fall the previous day. Unfortunately she turned out to have broken a bone in her foot- as she’s now had her bunion operation on the other foot she has 2 feet out of action! Meanwhile I’ve heard that Des is seriously considering a new hip! And on the medical front Steve H is now recovering from his heart op. Hey all of these complaints were not caused by the walk!!

A final mention should be made of Illya and Susan from The Cove. Fantastic couple who treat each group as if it’s they are theor first ever guests(they have been doing this for 30 years!). It’s such a great place to stay and as Illya says “You don’t need to come with Pam to stay here”. Click here to check out their website.

For more photos of this trip click here.

Mary turned out to have a poetic streak in her and on the last night recited the following:

BIBBULMUN              BY MARY CARLYON

Wind at my back
Sun on the track
Though Tingle forest
and coastal plain
Carpets of flowers
We pass the hours
On to The Cove again

Wind at our back
Rain on the track                      
Seas pounding below
Through Tingle forest
and coastal plain
Hillsides of colour
Sky getting duller
Back to The Cove again

Rain on our back
Mud on the track
Spirits soaring high
Past seas of blue
and pools of greens
On to The Cove again

Walking though peppermint forests
Banksia glade with  orchids profuse  
Past granite tors
We couldn't do it
We wouldn't have done it
Without Inspiration Outdoors!

Unlike last week, we were blessed with good weather the whole week. Very little wind, and cloud cover making walking pleasant (though the back up crew would have liked a bit more sunshine). There was a slight hiccup on the first day, of which I am not to say anymore, except that we were very grateful to the assistance of Susan (from The Cove). The group loved the Tingle forest, the Frankland River hut and raved about the  flowers. Ruth, from Victoria, patiently captured the trip on film (some wonderful shots) . Once on the coast they conquered Rame Head with no problems whatsoever, and the next day the canoe crossing was exceedingly efficent. I’m sure Ann’s dancing the night before made her especially sprightly on this day- I think it helped her knee problems! Boat Harbour was warm enough to entice Gisela, Brian and Ruth for a swim.  The following day Parry Inlet was only a knee deep crossing. Some of us managed a swim at Green Pool, Rover being one of them. Then it was onto the last day and Mt Halliwell was a mere blip on the map. Mind you they were fortified for the climb by my amazing scones- first time I’ve made them in 20 years- I thought I belonged to the “my scones are  rock cakes” brigade. Thanks Di for all those tips!

However, the hero was Cath- on walking into The Cove on the last day, she had completed the entire Bibbulmun Track over a 10 year period. Cath had done most of it on her own, but we felt very privileged that she completed it with us.

For more photos of this trip click here.

We had a couple of clever bush poets with us, in Robin and Rob. So I have reproduced their efforts here:

FROM ROBIN:

Now my limericks pack laughs anatomical

Into space which is quite economical

But the good ones I’ve seen

So seldom are clean

And the clean ones so seldom are comical.

First please give young Pam a big cheer

Without her we wouldn’t be here

All my questions and yours

Inspiration Outdoors

Has fast answered, from garments to gear.

We’re glad Gisela stepped into the fray

When sadly Bob’s mum passed away

So she’s there at the back

Checking maps of the track

And her knowledge of birds saves the day.

But now comes the verse Steve has dreaded

His Canadian confidence shredded

Despite long hours of raking

And making fire breaking

He still can’t quite tell the Unleaded.

Our day three frog, don’t we all know it,

Went to Rob, our new resident poet

Brian based HIS on truth,

Rob just sucked up to Ruth

Though the ‘strewth’ joke was likely to blow it.

Quite an effortless walker is Brian

Seems to keep on without really tryin’

On that seven ‘k’ beach

He was soon out of reach

Shoulders back, striding out with hair flyin’.

Yet Ann’s added that rare touch of glamour

At the dance – oh! the hubbub and clamour!

Though her knee’s given pain

She’s kept on, sun or rain

Without even a hint of a drama.

Today Cath’s proved herself such a star

Over ten years she’s travelled so far

She’s the group’s major gain

Like this arvo’s Champagne

(Though she’s glad we’ll be leaving by car).

I’m quite certain of Sheryl’s rare powers

Though she’s stopped to admire the flowers

She’s kept walking each day

And ignored feet of clay

Just don’t mention her billable hours.

And our Ruth has been quite camera happy

At each orchid she’s been snap, snap, snappy

With her cameras and lens

And her new GPS

There’s photos through light good or crappy.

And we’ve meals from Peggy to fill ya

Weather forecasts provided by Illya

Though the temperatures dove

It was warm at The Cove

Where the crossword solutions got sillier.

Now for Dee our affection is big

Beach-blown hair flying round like a wig

Her life’s catchphrase will be

“Hey guys; when’s morning tea?”

Yes, our world-famous Coco Mount Pig.

Now last but not least there’s my Dad

Of whose presence I’ve been really glad

Though we argue, I care

And I’m happy we share

All things Bibbulmun, happy and sad.

With these meals each day’s been a girth day

But a ‘getting in touch with the earth’ day

So before our last dish

Please do join me to wish

Pa a late Happy 80^th Birthday.

Robin Mellon

AND FROM ROB:

The Gang From Frankland River (on day 2 of 7)

With Deep Apologies to the Man From Snowy River

There was movement up at Pipidinny, for the call had pierced the night

That the dodgy copper from Dalkeith couldn’t make his way

down south, to the tall trees, the inlets and the rivers

Took something pretty serious to keep big Bob away

So Gisela rode in, to lead the marshalled rabble

and quickly marched us – discipline applied

But alas our rapid Rover, octogenarian drover

In the warm up stroll he lengthened out his stride

He was lassoed ‘afore the cove, the goal for which we strove

He couldn’t outrun the determined, worried Gisela

Then Dee arrived in a flicker, with Anaconda sticker

Powered by Steve’s nemesis fuel called ‘diesela’

The group complete in Jarrah, ‘neath the towering karri trees

We settled in to get the routine straight

“No stragglers, pack some water, stay together like you oughtta

don’t get drunk tonight, we’re on the road by eight”

The group was fairly small and soon we knew them all

With Pam’s memory game about a name and a walk

So all knew all and were ready, as we lined up on the jetty

A sole pelican bade us farewell with a ‘pose for photo’ squawk

Then off onto the Bib track, fresh as daisies we all were

Gisela at the front and Rover back

With Cath on the last piece of her long and winding puzzle

That will see her complete her journey of the mighty Bibbulmun Track

With the support of Pam and Steve it was an interesting first eve

As the whole shebang it nearly came unthreaded

Steve said “I’m a Canadian, not a Yank”, Pam said “then why’d you fill the tank

with diesel and not premium unleaded?”

Then there’s Ruth, struth she’s misspent her youth

God knows, there’s nowhere she’s not been

It’s a bottomless purse and the curse of a nurse

To fund such a travel bug, there’s quite a lot she’s seen

and Robin brought his Dad, no doubt down deep he’s glad

For eighty’s a birthday that shouldn’t be ignored

Robin’s the baby of the bunch but he knows the plants by name

Wakes up each day bleary eyed saying “for Christs sake Dad you snored”

Then there’s Pam leaving clues that we step on with our shoes

She turns up to provide the midday meal

I reckon she’d rather be leading, her poor heart must be bleeding

Unfortunately her achilles has become her achilles heel

Let’s not overlook Brian, who hardly seems he’s tryin’

Ambles along so easily with an ample length of stride

A bushwalking all-rounder, plant spotter and bird sounder

To miss the day two chocky frog must have really hurt his pride

And then there’s one called Dee, chirpy, chatty happy she

Who’s got a name that’s not a name, it’s an initial

It’s really quite alarming, disarming and positively charming

She’s happy go lucky, glass half full and nothing superficial

And Anne returned like a boomerang to walk another bit

With trademark grit, determination and courage to endure-all

And by the time she’d finished, her skills were undiminished

As evidenced by walking poles - grew from singular to plural

Cheryl came along, to escape the maddening throng

Of the ‘for every six minutes, your time you shall account’

But the group said “keep on walking – no stopping and no talking

it’s three hundred metres every six minutes or the pressure’s going to mount”

It’s darned hard to do justice to such a wide and varied group

Constricted by rhyming, rhythm, phrasing and such

But I’m damn sure by the time we hit the cove at day seven

We’ll raise a glass to Pam and say “thank you very much”.